How to Fix a Dripping Tap Properly

That steady drip at 2am is bad enough. The part most people miss is that a dripping tap is usually a small, cheap fix if you catch it early – and a more awkward job if you leave it until the handle stiffens, the seat wears down, or the cupboard below starts smelling damp.

If you want to know how to stop a dripping tap, the first job is working out what kind of tap you have. The repair for a traditional washer tap is different from a ceramic disc tap, and slightly different again for a mixer tap. Get that bit right and the rest is usually straightforward.

Before you stop a dripping tap, identify the tap type

Most dripping taps in UK homes fall into three groups. Traditional pillar taps usually have separate hot and cold handles and often rely on a rubber washer. Quarter-turn taps often use ceramic discs. Kitchen mixer taps can use cartridges, ceramic discs, or small internal seals depending on the design.

A good rule is this: if the tap needs several turns to open and close, it is more likely to use a washer. If it turns only a quarter or half turn, it is more likely to be ceramic disc. That matters because replacing a washer is a different job from replacing a cartridge.

You should also pay attention to where the water is coming from. If it drips from the spout, the fault is usually inside the tap mechanism. If it leaks around the base or under the handle, you may be dealing with an O-ring or seal instead.

What you need before starting

You do not need a van full of kit for this. In most cases, an adjustable spanner, a screwdriver, a pair of grips, PTFE tape, replacement washers or O-rings, and possibly a new cartridge will cover it. A cloth or towel is worth having nearby to protect the tap finish and catch any drips.

It also helps to put the plug in the basin or sink before you start. Small screws and tap parts have a habit of disappearing down the waste at exactly the wrong moment.

Turn the water off first

Before you undo anything, isolate the water supply. Some taps have isolation valves under the sink, which you can turn off with a flat-head screwdriver. If not, you may need to shut off the mains water.

Once the supply is off, open the tap to drain any remaining water. This relieves pressure and makes the job less messy. Keep a towel under the pipework, especially in a kitchen cupboard where a small amount of leftover water can still run out.

How to stop a dripping tap with a washer

Washer taps are often the simplest to repair. The washer sits on the bottom of the valve and creates a seal when you turn the tap off. Over time, it hardens, splits, or wears unevenly, which lets water sneak past.

Start by removing the tap cap or index disc, usually marked hot or cold. Under that you will normally find a screw holding the handle in place. Lift the handle off carefully. If it has not moved in years, it may need a gentle wiggle rather than brute force.

Next, use a spanner to undo the tap bonnet or headgear and lift out the valve assembly. At the bottom you should see the washer, held on by a small screw or push-fit arrangement. Replace it with the same size washer. If the size is even slightly off, the tap may still drip or may become difficult to close.

While you have it apart, inspect the valve seat inside the tap body. If that surface is rough or scored, a new washer may not solve the problem for long. In that case, you may need a seat reseating tool or a replacement tap if the wear is too far gone.

Reassemble the tap, turn the water back on slowly, and test it. Do not overtighten the handle when closing it. If a tap only stops dripping when it is forced shut, there is still a fault somewhere.

Fixing a ceramic disc tap

Ceramic disc taps wear differently. Instead of a rubber washer compressing against a seat, two ceramic surfaces align to control flow. They are reliable, but when they fail, the issue is often grit, limescale, or a worn cartridge.

Remove the handle in the same general way, though the fixing screw may be hidden behind a small cap or under the lever. Once the handle is off, remove the retaining nut and lift out the cartridge.

First check for obvious scale or debris. In some areas, especially hard water areas, mineral build-up can stop the cartridge sealing properly. A careful clean may help, but if the cartridge is cracked, worn, or stiff, replacement is the better option.

The main thing here is matching the cartridge correctly. Height, diameter, splines, and fixing points vary. If the replacement is not identical, the tap may not turn properly or may leak straight away. If you are ordering parts, it is worth checking the old one before adding to basket rather than guessing.

If the tap leaks around the handle or base

Not every drip comes from the spout. Water around the top of the tap or running down the body usually points to a worn O-ring, gland seal, or cartridge seal.

In many cases, you can reach these once the handle is removed. Replace the seal with the same size and lightly lubricate it with plumber’s grease if suitable for the fitting. Avoid forcing parts back together dry, as that can twist the seal and create a new leak.

If the leak is from the base of a monobloc mixer tap, the job can become less convenient because the tap may need to come off the sink for full access. That is still manageable for a confident DIY job, but it takes longer and may be more hassle than a simple washer swap.

When limescale is the real problem

Sometimes the tap itself is fine, but scale on the aerator or internal parts affects the flow and makes the problem seem worse. If the tap drips, splutters, or sprays oddly, unscrew the aerator from the end of the spout and check for build-up.

A soak and clean can improve performance, but it will not fix a genuinely worn internal part. This is one of those jobs where it depends on the symptoms. Poor flow alone points one way. A steady drip with the tap fully closed points another.

Common mistakes that make the job harder

The biggest mistake is buying parts too early. Taps are not as standard as people hope, especially older ones. Taking the tap apart first and matching the washer, O-ring, or cartridge saves time and usually saves a second trip.

The next mistake is overtightening. A tap should seal properly without being wrestled shut. Overtightening can damage washers, strip threads, and make ceramic mechanisms fail sooner.

It is also easy to mark chrome if you put grips straight onto the finish. Wrap jaws with a cloth before turning anything visible. It is a small step, but it avoids turning a simple repair into a cosmetic problem.

When to repair and when to replace

If the tap is decent quality and the fault is just a washer, O-ring, or cartridge, repair is usually the best-value option. The parts are inexpensive and the job is often done in under an hour.

If the tap is heavily corroded, the seat is damaged, the fixing underneath is seized, or parts are no longer easy to match, replacement may be more sensible. This is especially true for older kitchen taps that have already had several fixes over the years. There is no point spending ages chasing a leak on a tap that is near the end of its life.

For households trying to keep jobs simple, it often makes sense to pick up the small plumbing consumables at the same time as the rest of the order – PTFE tape, spare washers, cleaning products, even a new adjustable spanner if yours has gone missing. That is the sort of practical top-up shop many customers use Homepride Online for.

Knowing when to call a plumber

A dripping tap is usually a realistic DIY job, but not always. If you cannot isolate the water, if the tap body cracks while you are undoing it, or if the leak is actually coming from pipework below the sink, get a plumber in. The same applies if access is poor and you are working in a cramped vanity unit with old pipe connections that look ready to give up.

There is no prize for turning a five-pound drip into a much bigger leak.

A quiet tap is one of those small household wins that makes the whole room feel sorted. Take your time, match the part properly, and if the tap is telling you it wants replacing rather than repairing, listen to it before the drip turns into a larger job.